Jil Sander Navy Summer 2012

It seems my love for well-structured pieces with sharp colours and admiration of Alexa Chung's hair has lead me to the Jil Sander Navy Summer 2012 collection- there's a distinct withdrawn nature about it for a Summer collection and features materials I'm more accustomed to associate with Autumn/ Winter collection. Like any good collection for the new season whether that be Summer or Winter (depending on location of label) there are thick and chunky brogues as well as the use of mid-calf socks a trend that is becoming more evident and popular with the presentation of models for collections.

Elements of the Autumn and Winter collection are also apparent in the strong structured pleated skirt I've come to know from other collections such as J.W. Anderson Pre-Fall as well as the new Kenzo collection. I just love the bold design of the dress, including the inverted 'T' shape darts for the pleats of the skirt and the perfect red hemline lending the piece well to be used as something for colour blocking. The use of matching beige platform brogues with their own small red rubber also cleverly mimics the pattern of the skirt. I love the way navy and black is used in this collection as two interchangeable shades of the same ilk.

As well as strong structured dresses and skirts with pleats and collars abound, there's large outdoor coats used as drapery pieces with a contrasting softer side to them- I love the way they cloak the stick-thin models. It was interesting to see different shades of red, brown and navy used with other muted and neutral tones but the collection was very simplistic and minimalist in its approach. That's not necessarily a bad thing when it comes down to buying good quality clothing for all occasions but without the warmth and comfort of padding in a coat, what use are they for the Summer season other than something to wear at night? However unfair I may be, the use of the coats in combination with soft leather bags and chunky platform lace-ups does add an air of sophistication about the outfits and they are beautifully put together.

I love the metallic sheen about this soft pink/ dusty grey material and there is a lovely strong structure about it from the bust down which creates pleats, but I can't help but think the collar and what appears to be a zipper down the middle lets down the structure and material. For something of this colour and with the capped sleeves I expected something more refined and evening to wear- not collars and a small little dart down the middle. I think I'd prefer the skirt of the dress as its own separate piece and maybe a better look at the collar, although all the models chosen have shoulder length hair it's never good to have that interfere with the detail of the dresses and pieces shown for the collection.

I'm still in love with pleats as well as collars in contrasting collars for shirts so naturally this ensemble is my favourite of the collection- the shoes as well as matching black socks create this ambiguity of when one piece ends and the other begins and the continuation of black from the collar and bag is clever but very subtle. I'm not often a big fan of vertical stripes involving white and black but there's something very chic and understated about the blouse shown above, it can lend itself well to a number of outfits and has great versatility about it. The skirt is one of the few pieces I would seek to buy online apart from the shoes and coats- I don't have a lot of pink in my wardrobe and this soft shade could be worn with a sheer blouse and some killer heels for a night out but also looks sweet enough to be worn during the day.

The dramatic use of a red coat with an entirely black ensemble? Wonderful- I love the small pouch at the waist of the model, for those travel savvy it would make a great keeper for your important documents or simply if your out shopping and want somewhere to hold your necessary plastic credit cards. You can be assured when buying from a label like Jil Sander some of the highest quality leather will be used for the small bag, and if my eyes don't deceive me is that a ribbed romper suit worn by the model? The all too familiar conflict when styling outfits for collection as opposed to showing them piece by piece is that the finer details and aspects of something worn under a large coat can be hidden under a coat at the centre of attention of the piece.

I love the small and barely noticeable discomfort of the model when wearing this school boy inspired ensemble, although tailored for a woman's body, Jil Sandler were clever enough to include a bulkier and wider collar, black tie with tie clip and charm and even tailored shorts. I also know the perfect little satchel from Olympia Le-Tan to include with the white collar style of these clothes offset by the lovable but very dorky red brogues with white laces. They remind me of bowling shoes  but with a platform edge and they add a splash of colour to the otherwise bland and straight-forward outfit styled above.

Jil Sander is known for her minimalist design, neat and ribbon decorated hems and has been as described as delivering class with edge. As my taste matures and I seek more refined pieces and drawn back prints it's good to know a brand that focuses on chic refinement and simple design- I love the small black bow tie across the waist to soften the two striped bands along the hem. A vintage Chanel jacket wouldn't go astray with this ensemble either whether it's fake or not wouldn't really matter.

It seems that classic designs are finally growing on me with the black coat and patterned sheer skirt catching my eye with the dorky platforms in black- they just seem so comical in comparison to the skinny little pale legs of the model. Still, I love the pallet of colours and the square blocking print used on the skirt as well as the pleats; I can't get enough of pleated skirts and dresses and I'll probably wear them until they are well and truly out of style once more. I love the loose structure of both skirt and coat though, the tight and form-fitting has always been a personal nemesis of mine so I naturally favour the casual and flowing lines the fashion world is so eagerly addressing.

Get a load of that large big black bag, definitely not something you want to carry around when slumming but I quite like the large and rectangular structure in comparison to the small shoulder strap aesthetically. In the practical world this bag would never fly with me and I wouldn't dare look at it in a shop but the side profile shown with the draping coat and the smart platform shoes in black sort of brings it all together in this surreal world of spies and danger as well as travelling with few possessions.

The hero of this piece is the wet-look or "lame" and shiny metallic gold material of the skirt- can you imagine the type of havoc you could wreak at a formal occasion with the right camisole top and some vintage gloves? I don't own many fantastic looking tops in their own right but I'm sure Miu Miu or Prada will have a gorgeous shirt with Peter Pan Collar in magnificent detail to go with this skirt. It would be wonderful to be able to dress up like this everyday but my mother will scarcely let me wear my American Apparel skirt when I go out to the city with her. For someone as anti-social as myself, my dress sense or the clothes I long to wear really call for some amazing occasion of celebrating with friends.

My favourite of all the coats featured in the collection is the cheery red colour, able to breath life into a khaki and beige ensemble and brighten up anyone's gloomy day.
 I'd love to see what young Alexa Chung would do with such a piece in her wardrobe which isn't that hard to imagine considering the short shoulder length hair of all the models used for this collection. Perhaps on my holiday to Canada next year I'll strike it lucky and buy a gorgeous coat from a brand name store for a wonderful price and get to swank around town with my mother and her friends.

The Eleventh Hour: Melt

Melt is the second collection of this youthful Sydney label, The Eleventh Hour which featured more of their signature french seams, folding and almost "architectural" strtucture of their clothes in luxurious materials and classic colours. It was this collection that I frist spotted while milling about the Alice Euphemia blog site on brands that they sell and my imagination was captured by the alluring sheer material as well as the sharp collars and vintage strcture of the dresses. This dress features a cut-out section at the back as well as sheer sleeves to really establish itself in a league of its own in terms of structure as well as adding a clever new twist to the garment.

The style of garment construction that The Eleventh Hour really lend themselves to could be described as classic, stylish and chic but with the use of luxurious materials as well as sheer materials to create seductive pieces. I'd like to see their take and use of lace material in their next resort collection as well as colours aside from baby blue, white and black. The backdrops used for their pieces and collection folios really allow their to be a heavier emphasise on the craftsmanship of each of their pieces.

The shape and material of their collars in relation to the rest of their blouse construction is what catches my eye; it's reminiscent of the Miu Miu 2010 collection but a bit more minimalist and formal. That leaves it the versatility to be dressed up and styled with a range of different jackets and jumpers as well as pants to evoke a certain mood as intended for a stylist of fashion blogger. I really should get the motivation to do some of that myself but I have yet to clean out my room properly, sort out things to be sold on eBay or work to find a space for photography for this to become a proper styling blog. In the words of my wise brother: "Can't be assed".

Long have I searched for a bustier top that doesn't look cheap and isn't an expensive vintage piece being resold past it's intended value- I was almost surprised by the bold move in stucture and the garment The Eleventh Hour chose to take on but the result is fantastic! On a hot day in Australia I may be able to get away with wearing a piece like this with long and airy gypsy pants and long silver necklaces. The styling for the photo shoot advertising the second collection of the Sydney label, Melt, opted for classic and chic pleated pants that taper towards the ankles. I love the result of airy and free clothes with the formal and straight-forward and luxurious material that have combined to create such a signature look for the brand with a casual flair.

I only have to wear formal attire when the occasion calls for it or when I'm trying to dress to impress at a job interview but I really do love the long and trailing tails of the jacket, the large lapels and soft pleats of the jacket. This is what impression The Eleventh Hour have left upon me and what I believe to be their design and construction at it's best, relaxed and within its element. It makes me feel hopeful for young Australian brands such as themselves to make an appearance at RAFW. The slick design also reminds me of some of Ellery's more minimalist designs and dresses before they branched off to use more materials with texture and colour to them. Still- it's nice to find a brand with a greater focus on the fine details rather than the overall and sometimes, dramatic aesthetic of an outfit. Maybe what's most appealing is the way it's worn without a shirt and the bare skin showing in between the jacket.

I'm curious to know as to whether the fols and intricate pleats of this dress would fair well without the aid of a belt but I do like the use of folds of material that don't look stiff and uncomfortable. The design is eye-catching and perhaps the most far-fetched or rather fantastic of the Melt collection. Maybe something more suited to what performer Lady Gaga would wear at a funeral with the accentuated and winged hips as well as the ruffles of the skirt. In this minimalist shade of black in a near-transparent black material the black somehow catches the light in a way I haven't really seen before. I do hope that The Eleventh Hour continue to go from strength to strength and invest in making more of these types of pieces in their collection that are playful and whimsical in terms of their shape and movement.

Chanel from Vintage resellers Claire Inc.

It screams luxury and decadence, the most renowned of all the fashion houses: Chanel. At the age of eighteen my dreams of owning something other than the prestigious brand's cosmetics or perfume remain just that; dreams. But there is a fantastic and magical world of vintage jewellery and fashion pieces from Chanel that have stood the test of time beautifully.
Since my fascination with the vintage realm of clothing at the age of thirteen (ahead of my time by leaps and bounds) I accidentally stumbled upon the vintage fashion resellers Claire Inc.

 

Claire Inc are therefore a company that discover hidden vintage treasures from the greatest names of the fashion world, i.e. Jean Paul Gaultier, Moschino, Chanel, Versace, Karl Lagerfeld, Lanvin... the list goes on and on.
There are perks to this handy service in that I, the consumer, are able to view gorgeous vintage pieces from the comfort of my own home and do not have to look far to find high quality jewellery, shoes, accessories or clothes. Although if you do believe in the magic of the hunt and spending much time to find a single treasure, this will cost you some of the fascination that comes along and is associated with scalping vintage and Op Shops. To keep the momentum of the Claire Inc business as well as pay for photographer space, modelling etc. there are mark-ups to their pieces. Claire Inc may be crudely labelled as Op Shop vultures poaching prime and premium pieces from such places and leaving ordinary people with so-so pieces.

 

But where else would I find such tantalising and prestigious fashion house labels? The quality and stock rotation from Claire Inc are superior and allow you to become familiar with the hottest designs of the 90's and other bygone eras. For someone of my age, Claire Inc sell the best internationally acclaimed pieces at prices that beat new pieces from retailers. There is also none of the anxiety traditionally associated with eBay auctions.

 

My favourite of all the Chanel pieces featured is the name plate belt, worn as a necklace. Never in all my days did I have such admiration for a cocktail piece of jewellery; felt longing to be branded by a fashion label or howled with despair and regret when it slipped through my fingers and someone else bought it. It's such a bold statement piece, but also simple in its single plate and thick-gold-chain design. I loved it, I've loved it for about two or three years. I had wanted to wear it to my school formal but then the years got away from me and I became progressively worse at saving money so now I can't wait to wear one myself and one a Chanel piece. Hopefully I'll get enough money behind me after selling some things on eBay and working part-time to buy tickets to Florence and the Machine for next May, save for my vacation to Bannf in Canada and buy something fantastic and extravagant.
You effectively advertise the brand, it's very much like a collar where you become dogged and owned by Chanel and work to promote them. That's fine by me of course; better Chanel than anyone else or any other brand I can think of.

Description Vintage CHANEL Black & White LAMBSKIN Flap BAG with DUSTBAG Era 90s Style Stunningly beautiful vintage bag circa 1990s from Chanel. Crafted from black & white lambskin it features classic CC quilting. Fully leather lined and setoff with gold fixtures and and a signature leather/chain strap. 100% authentic with serial number in tact and original dustbag. Collectable Chanel to last a lifetime Markings Serial number/original Chanel dusbag (verified authentic) Colour Black/White Material Leather Condition Very Good Vintage (minor wear only)

 

The bright colours of many of the blouses and camisoles after all these years still shine through- and I hope it's not just the bright and professional photographer lights. Even without them some of the detailed and embroidery stitching of the double C logo on the breast pockets of the blouse above is clearly visible. It may be the mish-mash of different pieces from different years and collections but Chanel manage to create a variety of different pieces in all the colours of the rainbow.

 I love the incorporation and contrast between the photo shoot conducted by Claire Inc and the traditional and vintage posters of clothing from Chanel. Claire Inc are incredibly good at what they do and they do manage to source and scour for magazine covers or advertising campaigns of their pieces from when they were first released. They often evoke that sort of mood as well when they show off their pieces available to be sold online.

 

Description Vintage CHANEL Classic COLLECTABLE Burgundy CAMELLIA BROOCH Era 80s/90s Style A true Chanel classic - the signature camellia brooch! Stunning burgundy palette crafted from beautiful velvety fabric. Perfect size for your lapel, jacket or even the neck of a blouse. 100% authentic with Chanel authenticity tag still in tact. A highly collectable vintage Chanel accessory. Comes with its original Chanel label Markings Signed on reverse Colour Burgundy

 

Claire Inc have such great attention to detail and often show close ups of their smaller pieces such as the authenticity stamp on earrings and necklaces as well as the extent of wear on bags. My amateurish dealings with them have always been pleasant and their staff are incredibly helpful if you are unclear about the colour perhaps from a dodgy computer screen or the sizing measurements and allowance in length of a piece of clothing. They have a lot of amazing pieces that I've seen over the years, from brooches to umbrellas and furry boots to Lycra jumpsuits. Claire Inc never fail to disappoint in terms of quality, range or the presentation of their pieces.

 

 

If ever you do see a vintage Chanel bag such as the quilted and tasseled bucket bag shown above, you better not blink because they are in such high demand that they do get snapped up really quickly! The quality of the leather of their bags is near perfection in terms of vintage standards.

 

The different combination of Chanel pieces as well as the vibrantly coloured backdrops always leaves me feeling wistful, but also broke. I like to see the cut-out Chanel belt in addition to the jumpsuit which is also Chanel.

Intrigued? Interested? Have you caught the vintage haute courtier bug yet? If you haven't then you better haul your butt over to visit the Claire Inc website and flick through their online catalogue. Careful though! It may take you some time to find everything you're looking for despite the handy categorising by garment type as well as brand. From that website you can also find your way to their blog and they can also be found on Facebook where some of there older photographs can be found from pieces which have already been rehomed.

I hope this information has been historically correct, helpful, and that whomever reads it does not buy pieces from Claire Inc before I have first dibs.