Jil Sander Navy Summer 2012

It seems my love for well-structured pieces with sharp colours and admiration of Alexa Chung's hair has lead me to the Jil Sander Navy Summer 2012 collection- there's a distinct withdrawn nature about it for a Summer collection and features materials I'm more accustomed to associate with Autumn/ Winter collection. Like any good collection for the new season whether that be Summer or Winter (depending on location of label) there are thick and chunky brogues as well as the use of mid-calf socks a trend that is becoming more evident and popular with the presentation of models for collections.

Elements of the Autumn and Winter collection are also apparent in the strong structured pleated skirt I've come to know from other collections such as J.W. Anderson Pre-Fall as well as the new Kenzo collection. I just love the bold design of the dress, including the inverted 'T' shape darts for the pleats of the skirt and the perfect red hemline lending the piece well to be used as something for colour blocking. The use of matching beige platform brogues with their own small red rubber also cleverly mimics the pattern of the skirt. I love the way navy and black is used in this collection as two interchangeable shades of the same ilk.

As well as strong structured dresses and skirts with pleats and collars abound, there's large outdoor coats used as drapery pieces with a contrasting softer side to them- I love the way they cloak the stick-thin models. It was interesting to see different shades of red, brown and navy used with other muted and neutral tones but the collection was very simplistic and minimalist in its approach. That's not necessarily a bad thing when it comes down to buying good quality clothing for all occasions but without the warmth and comfort of padding in a coat, what use are they for the Summer season other than something to wear at night? However unfair I may be, the use of the coats in combination with soft leather bags and chunky platform lace-ups does add an air of sophistication about the outfits and they are beautifully put together.

I love the metallic sheen about this soft pink/ dusty grey material and there is a lovely strong structure about it from the bust down which creates pleats, but I can't help but think the collar and what appears to be a zipper down the middle lets down the structure and material. For something of this colour and with the capped sleeves I expected something more refined and evening to wear- not collars and a small little dart down the middle. I think I'd prefer the skirt of the dress as its own separate piece and maybe a better look at the collar, although all the models chosen have shoulder length hair it's never good to have that interfere with the detail of the dresses and pieces shown for the collection.

I'm still in love with pleats as well as collars in contrasting collars for shirts so naturally this ensemble is my favourite of the collection- the shoes as well as matching black socks create this ambiguity of when one piece ends and the other begins and the continuation of black from the collar and bag is clever but very subtle. I'm not often a big fan of vertical stripes involving white and black but there's something very chic and understated about the blouse shown above, it can lend itself well to a number of outfits and has great versatility about it. The skirt is one of the few pieces I would seek to buy online apart from the shoes and coats- I don't have a lot of pink in my wardrobe and this soft shade could be worn with a sheer blouse and some killer heels for a night out but also looks sweet enough to be worn during the day.

The dramatic use of a red coat with an entirely black ensemble? Wonderful- I love the small pouch at the waist of the model, for those travel savvy it would make a great keeper for your important documents or simply if your out shopping and want somewhere to hold your necessary plastic credit cards. You can be assured when buying from a label like Jil Sander some of the highest quality leather will be used for the small bag, and if my eyes don't deceive me is that a ribbed romper suit worn by the model? The all too familiar conflict when styling outfits for collection as opposed to showing them piece by piece is that the finer details and aspects of something worn under a large coat can be hidden under a coat at the centre of attention of the piece.

I love the small and barely noticeable discomfort of the model when wearing this school boy inspired ensemble, although tailored for a woman's body, Jil Sandler were clever enough to include a bulkier and wider collar, black tie with tie clip and charm and even tailored shorts. I also know the perfect little satchel from Olympia Le-Tan to include with the white collar style of these clothes offset by the lovable but very dorky red brogues with white laces. They remind me of bowling shoes  but with a platform edge and they add a splash of colour to the otherwise bland and straight-forward outfit styled above.

Jil Sander is known for her minimalist design, neat and ribbon decorated hems and has been as described as delivering class with edge. As my taste matures and I seek more refined pieces and drawn back prints it's good to know a brand that focuses on chic refinement and simple design- I love the small black bow tie across the waist to soften the two striped bands along the hem. A vintage Chanel jacket wouldn't go astray with this ensemble either whether it's fake or not wouldn't really matter.

It seems that classic designs are finally growing on me with the black coat and patterned sheer skirt catching my eye with the dorky platforms in black- they just seem so comical in comparison to the skinny little pale legs of the model. Still, I love the pallet of colours and the square blocking print used on the skirt as well as the pleats; I can't get enough of pleated skirts and dresses and I'll probably wear them until they are well and truly out of style once more. I love the loose structure of both skirt and coat though, the tight and form-fitting has always been a personal nemesis of mine so I naturally favour the casual and flowing lines the fashion world is so eagerly addressing.

Get a load of that large big black bag, definitely not something you want to carry around when slumming but I quite like the large and rectangular structure in comparison to the small shoulder strap aesthetically. In the practical world this bag would never fly with me and I wouldn't dare look at it in a shop but the side profile shown with the draping coat and the smart platform shoes in black sort of brings it all together in this surreal world of spies and danger as well as travelling with few possessions.

The hero of this piece is the wet-look or "lame" and shiny metallic gold material of the skirt- can you imagine the type of havoc you could wreak at a formal occasion with the right camisole top and some vintage gloves? I don't own many fantastic looking tops in their own right but I'm sure Miu Miu or Prada will have a gorgeous shirt with Peter Pan Collar in magnificent detail to go with this skirt. It would be wonderful to be able to dress up like this everyday but my mother will scarcely let me wear my American Apparel skirt when I go out to the city with her. For someone as anti-social as myself, my dress sense or the clothes I long to wear really call for some amazing occasion of celebrating with friends.

My favourite of all the coats featured in the collection is the cheery red colour, able to breath life into a khaki and beige ensemble and brighten up anyone's gloomy day.
 I'd love to see what young Alexa Chung would do with such a piece in her wardrobe which isn't that hard to imagine considering the short shoulder length hair of all the models used for this collection. Perhaps on my holiday to Canada next year I'll strike it lucky and buy a gorgeous coat from a brand name store for a wonderful price and get to swank around town with my mother and her friends.

Little Red Riding Hood

Wearing: American Apparel Fleece Cape, Vintage Embroidered Collar Shit and Vintage Crochet Black Jumper.

These photographs were taken at least a year ago and my hair has grown in leaps and bounds in terms of length but I still have my wonderful cape in my closet and refuse to sell it although it doesn't get a lot of wear these days. Maybe it can be something I wear fearlessly to university with leggings from Wowch? The colour seems a little brighter in these photographs due to the very minimal hint of yellow in the lights but the cape does have a bit of a darker hue to it.

I haven't worn this combination in a while but I do love the embroidered sleeves and collar on that vintage shirt- I wear it to all my job interviews and it's sort of lucky since I usually land the job when I do wear it. There's a bit of embroidered detail down the middle of the shirt as well but I think with the black crochet jumper over the top you can see the best of the stitch work. The red cape over the top just adds a splash of colour to the whole ensemble as well and matched my lipstick really well- but I've lost it since then.

Shirt Collars

While I'm a little more used to collars looking cute against blouses and vintage shirts I do like the way the blue of this Lacoste shirt, as well as the shade of blue used for the wall and the bubbles decorating this photograph. The contrast of dark brown hair and flatly arched brows as well as an unsure darting of the eyes makes this image look more unique. I wish my arms were as skinny as hers, I really should hit the exercise bike as well as use the dumbbells a little more often to prevent my arms from getting flabby arms in old age.

The original trend setter as far as the school girl charm and vintage collar movement is the spooky Wednesday Adams. I love the use of red nail polish on small and neatly trimmed nails, the speckled pattern all over her dress as well as the puffed shoulders and contrast of a white collar over a black dress.

Another good way to update a collared shirt is to mix and match the predominant colour with the colour of the button seam as well as the colour and cut off sleeves. I love the combination of pure white and the clean crisp blue with the seemingly creepy tooth necklace and gold strung just belong the collar. I can only hope that those aren't real teeth and that they are just very small white stones. It would be great to get my hands on some lovely coloured shirts which mix and match colours but the best I can think of is to search for vintage pieces online which use bright and wonderful patterns and still have a lot of life left in them.

I love the clashing of the yellow and pointed colours of the blouse underneath with a full set of pouting lips covered in grape coloured lipstick. I'm not so keen to wear the shade myself- it's a bit too similar to the colours my mother wears herself.

Despite the use of a chunky and plastic white cross, this photograph gives off such a darkness, it must be the little beaded necklace reminding me of rosaries as well as the Peter Pan collar in white against the main body colour of the dress in black. To top it all off theirs the hand written message of 'I am a Horror' and what appears to be a Opening Ceremony X Chloe Sevigny buckle shoe in the middle of the dress written in fabric paint which looks more like frosted icing for a cupcake. I love the clashing of black and white and the overall home made look of the outfit, very cute and quirky.

Shirt Gowns from Black Box Boutique

After having explored a few different online stores for my favourite brands I must be reverting back to a simpler time without lycra, wild galaxy prints and structure. It's back to the basics with me, I've been lusting over many oversized dresses, full length featuring draped hems as well as a full length button up shirt structure. I always feel safe and better about myself when my clothes are a little too big- it gives the impression that I'm a smaller size then I actually am.

This cheer shirt gown is perfect layering piece for the summer. Worn with a slip underneath buttoned up, or undone as a long layering piece.

 

Sometimes tight fitting clothes also can be a little uncomfortable since their confining and restraining. There wouldn't be any problems with these lovely dresses though, first we have the Shirt Gown by Kirrily Johnston. Strangely of all the black shirt dresses featured, they're all from different labels. I guess great minds think alike then huh? I like the little gathering effect at the back, it's still a very minor detail and doesn't over complicate the design but it's a nice touch all the same. I like the feeling of long and light weight skirts floating around my legs and holding them above my ankles as I walk around.  The use of black boots with this black and sheer dress is something I'd like to try myself, dressing it up with silver and brass jewellery or some lovely rose gold. This sleeveless dress really gives you room to move and would be great for Summer with a camisole underneath and some medium tight shorts. Like the disco shorts from American Apparel in black.

 

For more of a dressed up and mature look maybe sheer sleeves and a collar would be suitable? Because of the addition of loose hanging sleeves that drape nicely around the arms, as well as a collar and darts at the hem this dress looks more like a sack but has more of a sheer touch to the material and there's an openness about it. Reminds me less of Scrooge from a Christmas Carol and more of a modern witch trying to blend in with today's society. All these lovely dresses would go great with silver jewellery to really channel the dark magic vibes.

Lonely Hearts Dress- Sleeveless shirt dress with full length buttoning. Draped sleeves and sheer with a curved hem.

 

I like the little darts at the side of the hem on a hot Summer's day there's nothing more necessary then getting good air flow through your clothing and keeping cool. Despite the fabric being black and the colour most likely to heat up in the sun, I'm not at all deterred. My mother has pointed out that I'm a little like her best friend, if I can get it in black then I will. It's just easier to wear that way and there's less to worry about when matching it with bags and other things.

 

Just to mix things up and surprise you I've also thrown in another dress into the mix, all dresses available online from Black Box Boutique  and ranging between $350-$400 as a rough guide. Taking a break from all the loosely structured dresses in black I thought it would be a welcome change to introduce you all to this lovely lilac bustier dress by TR Ensemble. At the top of the dress is a fitted bodice at the top of the skirt- I sort of like the gathered and individual cups of the bustier. While it does add and focus attention on that area, if you don't have an ample chest, such as myself, it would look dainty as well as like a sweet imitation ballerina. While the structure is more suited towards a more formal occasion, the material and colour are very much suited towards the day. You could easily dress it up using a black velvet blazer though, or even better, lilac velvet blazer.

 

Just did a little eBay search for velvet jackets, found a beauty from Marc Jacobs 2002 collection in my size and I can afford it but I really do need to save my money for a rainy day and something more affordable. It would look so cute with that dress and those shoes but I have no where to wear it so it will just have to pass for now. I like the irregular hem cut of the dress, probably due to the gathering at the waist. I love that style of dress which includes a high waisted skirt and fitted bustier at the top and the fact that lilac is my favourite colour too only sweetens the deal. I have a great care bears backpack I could team up with it.

 

The dress that attracted me to the style was the buffalo shirt dress by TR Ensemble- the deep breast pockets as well as loose hanging sleeves look so casual, while it may not be suitable for working heavy machinery it would be a great shirt dress to wear for Sunday brunch with a friend. I like the touch of stunning black wedges for height and to make the hem of the skirt float even more so. There's a slight dip in the hem at the sides leaving you free to move around as well.

 

It's always a nerve-wracking feeling when wearing clothes that don't fit properly, I hate having to be weary of what my pants are doing even when I'm sitting down and while the long trailing hem may be in danger of getting dirty, if you've mastered wearing gorgeous heels or wedges why not dress up this simple look a bit and float around gracefully? I'd love to see the wind whip around this skirt while in wedges, it'd make you look like a grim spectre lording over the living.

 

TR Ensemble don't play favourites as far as colours are concerned- they've also made their shirt dress come in white for those of us who are drawn to pristine hospitals as well as a world of clean, pure white linen. Not me though, I'm much to fixated on looking like a witch and wearing my long dark hair out while feeling cool in a long black dress. I'm not too worried about the sheer factor having dealt with it before and being used to wearing camisoles, usually in black. That's why a black dress is more suited for someone of my taste, I had a white sheer dress I wouldn't have a choice between nude or black camisoles and I'm much more comfortable in black. As my space head, hippy of a Literature would probably diagnose, black is my 'power colour'.

The Eleventh Hour: Melt

Melt is the second collection of this youthful Sydney label, The Eleventh Hour which featured more of their signature french seams, folding and almost "architectural" strtucture of their clothes in luxurious materials and classic colours. It was this collection that I frist spotted while milling about the Alice Euphemia blog site on brands that they sell and my imagination was captured by the alluring sheer material as well as the sharp collars and vintage strcture of the dresses. This dress features a cut-out section at the back as well as sheer sleeves to really establish itself in a league of its own in terms of structure as well as adding a clever new twist to the garment.

The style of garment construction that The Eleventh Hour really lend themselves to could be described as classic, stylish and chic but with the use of luxurious materials as well as sheer materials to create seductive pieces. I'd like to see their take and use of lace material in their next resort collection as well as colours aside from baby blue, white and black. The backdrops used for their pieces and collection folios really allow their to be a heavier emphasise on the craftsmanship of each of their pieces.

The shape and material of their collars in relation to the rest of their blouse construction is what catches my eye; it's reminiscent of the Miu Miu 2010 collection but a bit more minimalist and formal. That leaves it the versatility to be dressed up and styled with a range of different jackets and jumpers as well as pants to evoke a certain mood as intended for a stylist of fashion blogger. I really should get the motivation to do some of that myself but I have yet to clean out my room properly, sort out things to be sold on eBay or work to find a space for photography for this to become a proper styling blog. In the words of my wise brother: "Can't be assed".

Long have I searched for a bustier top that doesn't look cheap and isn't an expensive vintage piece being resold past it's intended value- I was almost surprised by the bold move in stucture and the garment The Eleventh Hour chose to take on but the result is fantastic! On a hot day in Australia I may be able to get away with wearing a piece like this with long and airy gypsy pants and long silver necklaces. The styling for the photo shoot advertising the second collection of the Sydney label, Melt, opted for classic and chic pleated pants that taper towards the ankles. I love the result of airy and free clothes with the formal and straight-forward and luxurious material that have combined to create such a signature look for the brand with a casual flair.

I only have to wear formal attire when the occasion calls for it or when I'm trying to dress to impress at a job interview but I really do love the long and trailing tails of the jacket, the large lapels and soft pleats of the jacket. This is what impression The Eleventh Hour have left upon me and what I believe to be their design and construction at it's best, relaxed and within its element. It makes me feel hopeful for young Australian brands such as themselves to make an appearance at RAFW. The slick design also reminds me of some of Ellery's more minimalist designs and dresses before they branched off to use more materials with texture and colour to them. Still- it's nice to find a brand with a greater focus on the fine details rather than the overall and sometimes, dramatic aesthetic of an outfit. Maybe what's most appealing is the way it's worn without a shirt and the bare skin showing in between the jacket.

I'm curious to know as to whether the fols and intricate pleats of this dress would fair well without the aid of a belt but I do like the use of folds of material that don't look stiff and uncomfortable. The design is eye-catching and perhaps the most far-fetched or rather fantastic of the Melt collection. Maybe something more suited to what performer Lady Gaga would wear at a funeral with the accentuated and winged hips as well as the ruffles of the skirt. In this minimalist shade of black in a near-transparent black material the black somehow catches the light in a way I haven't really seen before. I do hope that The Eleventh Hour continue to go from strength to strength and invest in making more of these types of pieces in their collection that are playful and whimsical in terms of their shape and movement.