Runway Report: Paris Fashion Week--YSL Fall/Winter 2012/2013--Stefano Pilati's Final Collection!

Ciao & Adieu: Stefano Pilati takes his final bow at YSL

After being with the famed French house since 2000 and serving as head designer since 2004, Stefano Pilati exits the historic House of Yves Saint Laurent (which is now owned by PPR) after yesterday's Fall/Winter 2012/13 show. 1940's (or 80's depending on how you see them!) broad shoulders (very old-school Saint Laurent), nipped-in waist, leather, chain-mail detailed dresses, were shown as part of this last Pilati-designed collection. Colors included black, grey, maroon, moss green, ivory.

Stefano Pilati has been rumored to be out for at least a year now at YSL. His accessories have continued to sell well, particularly the shoes and his designs for YSL did make an impact on the red carpet--whether to movie premieres, parties or award shows, but, the talk among the fashion industry insiders was that the clothes had been languishing at retail for some time.

WWD is reporting that according to "sources," former Dior Homme designer Slimane is the "frontrunner" to succeed Pilati. It would be a return for the French designer to YSL, as Slimane applied his skills in sleek, skinny-trousered menswear to Yves Saint Laurent men's in the late '90s.

Stefano Pilati gave this quote:
“I exit the house with fierce conviction in all that we have achieved and deep gratitude to those who have supported me along the way... I wish the maison Yves Saint Laurent and its new creative director the very best for the future."

Below are some images from YSL Fall/Winter 2012/2013 followed by the full runway video of the show/collection:

Hooded: YSL Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Masculine Chic: YSL Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Dinner Meeting: YSL Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Plunging: YSL Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Le Cape: YSL Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Shoulder Gown: YSL Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Nipped In: YSL Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Click Below for YSL Fall/Winer 2012/2013 Full Runway Video--Stefano Pilati's Last Collection:

Runway Report: Versace Men's Fall/Winter 2012 --Photos + Full Runway Video

Donatella...for Johnny Weir??

It's 1986 All Over Again: Versace Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Donatella Versace showed her vision for the Versace man for Fall/Winter 2012/2013 and its a DOOZY! While the soundtrack played, beginning with Ursula 1000's "Hey You!" to Death In Vegas' "Witch Dance", the collection went ALL OVER the place. All the models had slicked back pompadour hairstyles, and the collection's colors ranged from bright tomato red to neon apple green, canary yellow, turquoise blue and anything in between. Did I mention it's Fall?

Flower Boys: Versace Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

There was lots of fur and blindingly bright "Flower Power" prints--enough to make even Elton John blush. I think I even saw some printed 1985-esque MOCK turtlenecks (Oh Dear!).

"The Eagle" Is Calling: Versace Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Speaking of 1985: the entire collection seemed to be reliving the 1980's heydays of Versace and all those sexy ad campaigns from back in the day. Also, besides all the in-your-face colors and prints, there was lots of leather; quilted vests, 80's style motorcycle leather jackets, with studs (naturally, it's VERSACE!). There were even denim and leather chaps that could have looked right at home at a Leather Daddy Gay Bar circa 1986. And notice the leather-and-studded fingerless gloves.

The Stud: Versace Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

On the subject of denim, standouts in this very wacky (even pour moi) collection included some fab denim jackets--studded of course. Shapes were unusually boxy for the current Menswear standard of skinny shrinking shapes. Oh, and speaking of BIG...those big ol' motorcycle boots you had already given away to Goodwill or sold at a garage sale ages ago? If Donatella has her say come next Fall, they're BAAACK!

No Evening Wallflower: Versace Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

And if all the above wasn't enough, the evening wear portion of the collection featured see-through shirts (soooo "International Male" Catalog!!) and printed and sequined tuxedo jackets. Was it all A LOT? Yes. Was it for--how shall I say this--a limited clientele like, say JOHNNY WEIR?? Yes again. And bless Donatella's heart for just going there! It will be very interesting come this Fall visiting the Men's section at a Versace boutique--and seeing really how much of this really ended up on the selling floor and/or how toned down it becomes when it gets to retail. We'll see...

Click Below for the Complete Versace Menswear Fall 2012 Runway Video:

Runway Report: Gucci Men's Fall/Winter 2012 Photos + Runway Video

Paisley Boys...

I Can't Afford Rent...But I Can Afford a Fab Fur Coat: Gucci Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

More Milan Menswear Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2012/2013 Highlights--Now, it's time for Gucci: Creative Director/Head Designer Frida Giannini showed her latest offering for Gucci Menswear Fall 2012 in Milan early this week. The silhouettes were thin, 60's-like and elegant--all the buzzwords that have been staples of the Gucci menswear collections as of late. Giannini's Gucci boy is a chic struggling artist/musician (not so struggling, if he can afford an $800 pair of pants!). She took this theme forward with this most recent collection.

Going to Torino: Gucci Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

The trousers were unusually loose at the hips and thigh but got stovepipe skinny down the leg and to the ankle. Lots of subtle elegant prints--like jacquard's, paisleys--seen in everything from those aforementioned trousers to jackets. And of course, being that it was Gucci--there were some GORGEOUS bags, sunglasses and shoes, the stuff that any of us will actually be buying! I was also loving the chunky sweater layered over suiting seen above!

Where's my Fiat: Gucci Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Time for Dinner: "Smoking Jackets" get redone, Gucci Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Click Below for the entire Gucci Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013 Runway Show:

Runway Report: Pre-Fall 2012 Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta

Park Avenue Ladies Need a Wardrobe Post-Spring...

Carolina Herrera Pre-Fall 2012: Bronze-Brown one-shoulder gown with side cowl drape detail and royal blue wait-tie accent

Pre-Fall 2012 Collections are here!! Yes, kids, we are barely into Fall/Winter 2011 and fashion designers are showing NEXT YEAR'S Pre-Fall Collections (It's crazy, I know!). Here are two collections from some of my favorite designers--who just happened to be of Latino descent, Venezuelan-born Carolina Herrera, the "Doyenne" of Park Avenue Chic, and Oscar de la Renta--Dominican Republic-born Master of "Ladies Who Lunch". Let's take a look:

Carolina Herrera Pre-Fall 2012:

Highlights: Bold prints; blue, silver-gray, bronzed-brown goddesses, royal blue "pops" of detail; silk taffeta and duchesse; tie-neck blouses; fitted pencil knee-length skirts; fitted gowns with pleated and bow'ed details:

Carolina Herrera Pre-Fall 2012: Blue-and-white printed blouse and knee-length fitted skirt in silver-gray and blue exaggerated "python print"

Carolina Herrera Pre-Fall 2012: Violet silk taffeta gown with "Mermaid-Lite" shape, waist seam and neckline detail

Carolina Herrera Pre-Fall 2012: Bronzed-brown, black and white colored one-shoulder gown

Carolina Herrera Pre-Fall 2012: Bronzed-brown knee-length dress featuring long sleeves, mink cuffs, and waist pleat detail

Oscar de la Renta Pre-Fall 2012:

Highlights: No Ball Gowns. There you have it...for his Pre-Fall 2012 Collection, the Monsieur of Ball Gowns, did not send one down the runway. Instead, there were lots of flowy sensual silk gowns, fan-pleated or bias-cut. Rose pinks, deep royal blues, lilacs, violet, bright canary yellow, geometric prints and luxurious fur (of course). Take a look:

Oscar de la Renta Pre-Fall 2012: Fur vest-coat, red cardigan jacket-sweater, printed skirt

Oscar de la Renta Pre-Fall 2012: Blue, lilac, black with white trim geometric-print cropped jacket with 3/4 glove-length sleeves, silk satin blue-colored blouse, black-and-white with multicolored hem knee-length skirt

Oscar de la Renta Pre-Fall 2012: Black coat with white applique, canary yellow trousers, and relaxed, ruffled white silk blouse

Oscar de la Renta Pre-Fall 2012: Ivory-colored bias-cut cowl-necked silk satin gown

Oscar de la Renta Pre-Fall 2012: Rose-pink fan-pleated sleeveless gown featuring a high neck, gathered midriff and full skirt

Click below for the Oscar de la Renta Pre-Fall 2012 Collection Runway Video:

Runway Report: Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012--Viktor & Rolf--Photos + Runway Video!

Doll Muse

Viktor & Rolf Spring 2012

Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012 is in full swing and Saturday was the Viktor & Rolf Spring 2012 runway show. Amsterdam-born designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren showed a very colorful collection that had BARBIE written all over it! We all know the duo has a MAJAH doll obsession--no fashionista worth their Louboutin's can ever forget that iconic Russian Doll Collection from their Fall/Winter 1999/2000 Haute Couture Collection. As you will see from the runway video at the end of this post--as well as these photos--from the moment the first model Natasha Poly came out in her synthetic pink eyelashes, over-sized laced-up jacket, skirt and bra-top ensemble, it was Mattel Barbie Land Heaven!

Viktor & Rolf Spring 2012

They carried the over-sized lacing through out their collection, and everything, from the collars to the blouson Bishop sleeves, was exaggerated 110%. They almost looked like "Valley of The Dolls: The Barbie Edition".

Viktor & Rolf Spring 2012

Colors were very "Barbie"--bubblegum pinks, deep reds, and royal blues. Lots of swirl-like applique' details as well.

Viktor & Rolf Spring 2012

The final Ball Gowns were of Couture-like quality. We may never see these in any store. But I have a feeling Katy Perry, Rihanna or Nicki Minaj's stylists might be calling...Speaking of calling, Mattel might need to make some flight reservations to Paris to meet with these two to come up with a Europe-only "Viktor & Rolf Barbie". I, for one, will be ALL over Harrods next year to get that doll!

Click Below for Viktor & Rolf Spring 2012 Runway Show:

Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011 Fashion Week: Chanel

Black and White COUTURE Swans...

Black Swan: Supermodel Stella Tennant opens Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011 Show in black and white Bouclé suit and skinny black pants

Chanel Haute Couture by Karl Lagerfeld: The Spring/Summer 2011 Collection was VERY Chanel; lots of the traditional Bouclé suits the Ladies Who Lunch LOVE. There was a 1960's "touch" in the square shapes and minis but "modernized" a bit in the styling. For example, Lagerfeld put skinny black pants under just about everything. Couture Leggings a la Chanel.

White over Black: NIKOLAKI Spring 2011 sequin paillete cowl-neck tunic/mini dress and capelet over silk ziberline skinny pants

It actually reminded me of my NIKOLAKI Spring 2011 Collection and this fabulous little number form our Look Book on Model Amanda Fields: So coincidental, and funny! Well, Karl, my NIKOLAKI design partner David Paul (it was his idea) and I ...um...think alike? Nevertheless, I love it!

Spiderweb Queen: White with black beading coat over black sequin skinny pants, Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011

Trends: Skinny black pants over EVERYTHING; 60's shapes, boxy shapes on top, fitted/skinny on bottom; white, light rose, blush, sequined details, sleeves for evening.

Themes: Black Swan/White Swan

Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011 Highlights:

Gossamer Sheath: Light Pink sheath dress with sleeves, Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2011

Michelle Williams Oscar Choice Suggestion: Silver sequin gown with sleeves, Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2011

Shapeless and Modern: Light pink silk iridescent organza and crystal sequined
sheath gown with raglan sleeves, Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2011

Click below for the COMPLETE Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011 Show:

The McQueen of China: Designer Guo Pei's "Arabian 1002Th Night" Haute Couture Fashion Show

China Couture Dolls...

Where's my Damn Tea: A design from Guo Pei's "Arabian 1002Th Night" Haute Couture Fashion Show, Beijing

Recently, while doing my weekly (fashion) reading--I came across this Couture Gem, thanks to NY Times Fashion Critic and Writer Cathy Horyn: Last week, in the T Magazine Blog for NYTimes.com article "Year of the Couturière", she spotlighted Chinese Couturier Guo Pei.

Who is Guo Pei? Guo Pei has been designing Haute Couture in Beijing China, through her Atelier "Mei Gui Fang", or Rose Studio for over ten years. All the creations in Guo’s studio are made entirely by hand and they take hundreds or sometimes tens of thousands of hours, to create. When she began her Atelier, she had to teach her seamstresses in the French Art of Haute Couture in order to create her intricate creations. Her workers weren't used to the unusual pattern-making, draping and fabric manipulations which Guo Pei required. But from the looks of these gowns, I think they've learned!

Her works feature many factors of Chinese culture but, at the same time, still retain a Western elegance, directionality and sensibility that has garnered the obvious comparisons to the late Alexander McQueen as well as John Galliano.

Pei, also designed costumes for the 2008 Beijing Olympics, including the gown worn by singer Song Zuying (seen above) when she performed at the Closing Ceremonies with tenor Placido Domingo. The gown had 200,000 hand-encrusted Swarovski crystals! The designer has become quite the hit with all the A-List Chinese actresses like Zhang Ziyi, as well as all those girlfriends of the newly-minted multi-millionaires in that country who can afford her one-of-kind creations.

Carmen Empress: Model Carmen Dell'Orefice at the Guo Pei "Arabian 1002Th Night" Haute Couture Fashion Show, Beijing

Last November, she showed her Spring/Summer 2010 Haute Couture Collection entitled "Arabian One Thousand and Two Nights" where Guo Pei showcased 16 Works of Haute Couture Art. The entire show lasted 76 minutes (most fashion shows run just under 15 minutes). The ensembles were KRAZEEEE!!! She even flew out 78 year old SUPER SUPER Model, Carmen Dell'Orefice to model in her show, decked out like a Ming Empress from a Gay Man's Dream! Lord knows who payed for all of it. Not sure she's making enough of an income to mount such a multi-million dollar show--flying out Miss Dell'Orefice and having her walk in your show can set you back an easy $20,000 alone--but whoever is backing Guo Pei, please keep doing it!

No detail was left unnoticed--from the set, the hair, the make-up, the buffed "Boys-In-Waiting" to even the footwear, of course. These Platform Bootie Pumps (above) make Alexander McQueen's infamous "Armadillo Shoes look like kid-stuff!!

Lady Gaga Wet Dream: A Ball Gown from Guo Pei "Arabian 1002Th Night" Haute Couture Fashion Show, Beijing

In addition, when seeing the video below, all I kept thinking was: Lady Gaga. However, if you read HERE (and in the T Magazine article), it seems that Guo Pei could care less if the biggest star in the Universe wears her creations, or not. How do you say "Ouch!" and "Snap!" in Mandarin??? Well, enough of all that, let's just take a look at THAT UNBELIEVABLE show:

Watch the edited--but still AWESOME--Gui Pei Haute Couture "Arabian 1002TH Night" Fashion Show:

Also a great Behind The Scenes Video:

NY Fashion Week Spring 2011: Marc Jacobs, Carolina Herrera and Jason Wu-- Photos and Runway Video!

COLOR, Voluminous Shapes vs Fitted, Purples and Violets, Black & White, 70's Vibe, Prints and Korea???!!!

Marc Jacobs Spring 2011 Disco Girl

As we know, NY Fashion Week Spring 2011 occurred several weeks back--and from all accounts, the new venue at Lincoln Center got an A. I was invited to the Project Runway Season 8 Finale which was held at Lincoln Center but unfortunately, work called and I had to be in Miami to hosts Fashion's Night Out for Macy's...I've been busy traveling for those Macy's events as well as working on my own NIKOLAKI Spring 2011 Collection with my partner David Paul so I didn't get a chance to post some of my favorites and highlights from this last NY Fashion Week. I'll try and post more from Milan and Paris, of course, but for now here a few of my thoughts plus photos and video from NYFW.

Marc Jacobs Spring 2011:

It's all about the 1970s for Marc Jacobs Spring 2011. Imagine photos from 1976 Vogue Magazine with Iman (above), Anjelica Huston, Bianca Jagger, the Charlie Perfume ad...models with crimped hair, strong smokey eye and even stronger lipstick. All that's missing is the doorman at Studio 54!

It was VERY Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche too! Maybe the young Fashion School Kids of these days are too young too remember but I DO...

Le Pouf: Voluminous violet-colored dress with side pockets

Where's my Cointreau: Wide violet-colored pants, printed knit top, fabulous hat...very Sonia Rykiel...

Golden Girl: Gold kimono-sleeved jacket and micro shorts

Traveling to Vietnam First Class Ma'am: Red floor-length skirt suit with matching safari jacket

Marc Jacobs Spring 2011 Runway Video:

Carolina Herrera Spring 2011:
Venezuelan-born American designer Carolina Herrera was inspired by the traditional clothing of Korea as well as botanical plates. Alright Carolina, you go there darling!

In the photos below you could see that inspiration translate into those top hats which are worn as part of Korean costume as well as obi-wrapped ties and bows--very Korean Airlines Flight Attendant Having Cocktails...As usual, she sent out her signature white shirts and blouses (which she always wears for her bow) as well as dresses and suiting perfect for her Park Avenue clientele.

Anybody for Kimchi Tonight: A Khaki sheath dress with floral applique, tucked-draping and that fabulous Korean-inspired hat

Wrap It Up: Chanel Iman models a shapeless & color-blocked (TWO Spring 2011 trends in one!) dress with an obi-tied accent

Where's The Ball: The Finale Gown in heavy ivory jacquard with black accents and of course, side pockets.

Carolina Herrera Spring 2011 Runway Video:

Jason Wu Spring 2011 Collection:
NY Wunderkid Designer--and Michelle Obama's fave--also went rather 70s with his Spring 2011 Collection. And just like Marc Jacobs, seemed to have rather overt nods to the Master, Yves Saint Laurent. Case in point: The see-though blouses, the perfectly tailored pleated pant suits and printed cocktail dresses straight from a "vintage" 1990 YSL Collection. I'm sure when those aforementioned blouses get to a Saks Fifth Avenue near you, they will probably be lined in silk habotai or come with a nice little silk camisole. If not: Ladies, you are on your own...

No Bra Required: White see-through tied blouse with full-pleated natural-waisted trousers

I Need a Virginia Slims: Above-the-knee printed silk ruffled dress

Ebony and Ivory: Black and white ensemble featuring a striped bustier and front cascade ruffled straight skirt.

Jason Wu Spring 2011 Runway Video: