NY Fashion Week Fall 2011: Rodarte, J. Mendel

Wheat Fields, Metallics, sequins, More Fur!, Art Deco 1920's Elegance...More NY Fashion week Fall 2011 Highlights!

House on the Rodarte Prairie: Rodarte Fall 2011

Rodarte Fall 2011

Leather Tanner: Rodarte Fall 2011

For Rodarte Fall 2011, the dynamic design duo of sister Kate and Laura Mulleavy, were inspired by the prairie wheat fields. There were several "Prairie Coats", silk mousseline gowns with "exploding" wheat prints at the hems and dresses with "aprons" featuring geometric graphics--it was very "True Grit" Couture-meets-Little House On the Prairie Luxe. The collection seemed almost a departure from what we've seen in the past, in terms of their "Arts-&-Crafty"-a-woolen-knot-here-and-a-twisted-tulle-there dresses. It almost looked (wait for it) more sell-able and commercial. Well, as "commercial" as Rodarte's almost one-of-a-kind pieces can be. Below--and above--are some standouts.

Wheat Gown: Rodarte Fall 2011

Do-Si-Do Square Dancing: Rodarte Fall 2011

We're Not In Kansas Anymore: Rodarte Fall 2011

Click below to watch FULL Runway Show of Rodarte Fall 2011:

J. Mendel Fall 2011:

1920's Goddess: J. Mendel Fall 2011

Dapper J. Mendel Designer Gilles Mendel said that he was influenced by his father's collection of aboriginal art as well as the tribal body art of the indigenous Australians, which he also noted reminded him of Art Deco Architecture--go figure! Yes, we designers can be influenced and inspired by A LOT of things. If this was John Galliano or Jean Paul Gaultier, well, you can only IMAGINE what those models--and the clothes--would look like! However, under Mendel's restrained and elegant tutelage, it became an elegantly subtle inspiration that morphed into silky 1920's gowns featuring geometrically-cut sequins as well as lots of furs--which is something the house knows a thing or two about since it's their "thang"! The collection was GORGEOUS! Take a look:

Art Deco Coat: J. Mendel Fall 2011

A Night Out At The Theater: J. Mendel Fall 2011

Plunging Beauty: J. Mendel Fall 2011

Click Below to watch FULL Runway Show of J. Mendel Fall 2011:

Nick Verreos on KCRW's "DnA" Radio Show !!!

Nick HEARTS KCRW!!

Costume Talk: KCRW "DnA" Radio Show Host Frances Anderton and Nick Verreos, FIDM Museum & Galleries

As you know, last weekend was the Gala VIP Opening Night Party of the 19Th Annual "Art of Motion Picture Costume Design" Exhibition at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising/FIDM Museum & Galleries. The Exhibit is OPEN to the public (it opened this last week) and in case you didn't get the "memo": It's FREE!!! On Opening Night, I did a great interview with one of my favorite LA Radio Personalities, the affable Frances Anderton of KCRW's "DnA" show.

NIKOLAKI Meets Costume Design A-List: Nikolaki Designers David Paul(L) and Nick Verreos(R) with "Alice In Wonderland" Costume Designer Colleen Atwood, FIDM "Art of Motion Picture Costume Design" Exhibition Photo Courtesy of Alex J. Berliner/abimages

The interview ended up as part of this month's program entitled "The Art of Rodarte: Black Swan and Design for the Movies" where Frances discusses Academy Award-nominated film "Black Swan" and also interviews Rodarte Designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy. I was humbled and honored to have been part of this great DnA program.

Click HERE to listen to the entire Podcast of "The Art of Rodarte: Black Swan and Design for the Movies", originally broadcast yesterday February 15Th

NY Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2010: Runway Videos: Marc Jacobs, Rodarte

And We're off to NY Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2010:

Marc Jacobs:
Earlier in the week, Marc Jacobs vowed to not have any actresses or paparazzi-ridden celebs in his front row (like last season's Madonna and Lady Gaga love-fest) and instead decided to actually have important editors and buyers sitting front row and center since they are who really matter in the end. As the designer and his business partner, Robert Duffy tore brown paper to reveal the podium filled with his 56 models, "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" played as the models began their walk down the runway showing Marc Jacob's Fall/Winter 2010 looks. It was a collection of his "best of the best" from his almost 20 year career. Mostly neutrals, lots of grays, some mustard yellows, and "Winter" pastels. Loved the mitered striped wool coats and the 1930s-inspired slithery gowns. Lots of exaggerated fur collared coats and wraps and some cute socks-with-pumps styling...very Marc Jacobs.No high drama, theatrics or tricks (except for that big pouffy Marc Jacobs Prom Dress at the end--still fabulous though!) just great saleable clothes his women will D.I.E. for...

Check out the Runway Video Below: Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2010


Rodarte:Known for their tulle, wool knit/crochet, ethereal but with a Goth edge dresses, the Mulleavy sisters took its audience on another Rodarte fashion trip. This time, for Fall/Winter 2010, it was Texas and Mexican border towns such as Ciudad Juarez. Patchwork arts-and-crafty dresses but with a defined "Couture" like quality: there was a method to the subdued madness. Floral chiffons, burnout velvets and laces that looked as if they were 100 years old--I can't even imagine the 150 pattern pieces on those dresses--the thought of these dresses going through Production can give any Production patternmaker a big headache! But somehow they do it, and do it beautifully. When I visit stores that carry Rodarte, such as Barney's and see their dresses, they are almost museum-like quality--and with a museum-like $14,500 price tag to boot! My favorites were at the end, those ivory "Virgin" gowns with asymmetrical side cowls with mini pouffy sleeves were a dream. Couture Communion Dresses anyone?

Rodarte Fall/Winter 2010 Runway Video, Part 1:


Rodarte Fall/Winter 2010 Runway Video, Part 2:

Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2010: Elie Saab and Valentino does Rodarte???

House of Valentino needs to Focus plus Elie Saab Love...
Influenced: Rodarte Spring 2010 and Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2010
The House of Valentino has gone through a couple of changes since Monsieur Garavani exited. First, they hired Alessandra Facchinetti to design and one Couture Season after, she was unceremoniously fired. Ever since, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, former Accessories designers for Valentino have been at the helm. I have to admit: I think they should have kept Facchinetti-- it was my favorite post-Garavani Valentino Haute Couture Collection. Case in point: For Spring/Summer 2010, Chiuri and Piccioli sent out some beautiful designs, BUT, it was very different from the season before...and the season prior to that....Make up your mind darlings. Are you "Classic Valentino... with a Twist"? Or are you Rodarte?
The color blocking, styling, and punk/apocalyptic make-up was very un-Valentino and more Blade Runner 2010... Can someone PLEASE explain this above? PLEASE??? It should be on a Fashionista test: "For $5,000, can anyone identify the designer of this dress?" I bet that 99.9 % would NOT have said "House of Valentino". That might NOT be a good thing kiddies...
However, there were some moments of "Valentino Clarity": As in this limoncello-colored silk chiffon gown. I would love to see someone wear this gown to the Oscars. Seriously. That actress would certainly be a stand out! (Sans that eye blindfold, of course!).
Valentino Preview Video Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2010


Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2010
Elie Saab
Pastels reigned for Spring 2010 at the Elie Saab Haute Couture show. Saab has been accused of being repetitive in his designs and once again, if you breeze through this 44 look collection it almost looks like you are viewing many of the same gowns over and over again. But Elie Saab knows his client (multi-millionaire Chinese women, Persian Gulf and Eastern Europe DIVAS!) and delivers exactly what she wants. One has to understand that in Haute Couture, if someone orders a dress that costs upwards of $100,000, very often you want to be the ONLY person who owns this one-of-a-kind garment. Therefore, Saab intelligently offers multiple variations on his exquisite creations giving each woman the "Elie Saab Look" but different enough to call her own.The one variation in the collection were two chiffon gowns that were created using a very large floral watercolor print. Although not for everyone, these prints certainly stood out amongst the sea of beaded frocks and looked perfect for a Swedish Princess.

Elie Saab Preview Video Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2010

NY Fashion Week Fall 2009 Runway Videos!!--Part 2

NY Collections: Futurism by way of the 1980's and Pasadena?
Her Name Was Rio: Marc Jacobs Fall 2009/10

During this last Fall 2009/10 New York Fashion Week, big shoulders (Zac Posen) , big Ball gowns (Oscar De La Renta) and strong make-up was on parade on the runways featuring the latest offerings for Fall 2009. There were also lots of Azzedine Alaia and Herve Leger-like body-wrapping and micro minis. If one blinked, you might have thought it was 1985 Fall Fashion Week! Case in Point: The marvelous Creative minds of Marc Jacobs and Rodarte.

Marc Jacobs:
Ready To Flashdance: Marc Jacobs Fall 2009/10

His Fall 2009 Collection, which began simple enough. First, he showed grey, almost-schoolgirl cardigans with neck scarves, but then quickly went into 1980's Stephen Sprouse-meets-Duran Duran colorful coats and dresses. The exaggerated make-up and spikey asymmetrical hair styles reminded me of those Patrick Nagel paintings---all that was missing was some black lacquered furniture strewn on the stage and I would have thought I was back at my High School Prom!
Barbie-Pink: Marc Jacobs Coat Fall 2009/10

I loved it all! Jacobs featured over-sized shoulders , over-sized jackets and lots of tight tights! The Crayola-like colors--from neon-bright yellows and greens to "Barbie" pinks, were unusual for Fall, but still looked great!! The Marc Jacobs message was in-your-face and strong for Fall: Buy a neon-yellow coat and update that all-black wardrobe come Fall 2009.
Click Below to see the entire Marc Jacobs Fall 2009 Runway Video.

Rodarte:
Wrapped Bride of Frankenstein: Rodarte Fall 2009/10

For Fall, the Pasadena, California based Mulleavy sister team of Rodarte designed a collection that almost looked perfect for the Bride of Frankenstein a la 2009. The looks were futuristic with a bit of quirky romanticism, which is becoming a Rodarte trait. Wrapped, draped and tied knit and woven tops over micro-mini skirts with high straitjacket-like leather boots.
These Boots Are Made For Walkin' : Rodarte Fall 2009/10

Each look seemed like a slight variation on the last one, with various color and draped top changes. Some thought it was a bit repetitive but that did not stop the fashionistas and fashion editors alike from going on and on about how much they just LOVED it. See for yourself.
Click below for the entire Rodarte Fall 2009 Runway Video.