Showing posts with label Alexander McQueen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Alexander McQueen. Show all posts

Runway Report--Paris Fashion Week--Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2012/2013--Photos + Full Runway Video


Fashion Snow Bunny:


Antarctic Couture: Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Sarah Burton, Creative Director and Designer for the House of Alexander McQueen showed her Fall/Winter 2012/2013 Collection in Paris yesterday. From looking at the photos and runway video, it all looked like a Winter Fashion Diva Fantasy. Shapes organically exploded as the show went on. As if this little Snow Bunny just got more and more FIERCE as it got colder and colder--in her Swiss Alps Chalet--or Antarctic Hideaway...

Burton's Winter Wonderland of Snow Divas began with ivory and creme coats--in graphic jacquard and brocades accented with Mongolian lamb, goat fur and ostrich furs. Then there was the group made of laser-cut pony skin mounted on leather (above photo).

Accessories included sci-fi visors and...

Fur-clad booties : Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2012/2013

The shapes--in skirts, aforementioned coats and dresses were very "pod"-like. These then exploded into tiered gowns. One tiered dress had--according to one of the McQueen Atelier sewers--EIGHTY godets! This is Couture-like workmanship. I highly doubt any of these grand objects will ever make it to retail or any of the McQueen stores but I'm sure we will see toned-down sellable variations instead. And yes, they will have plenty of that "Pippa" cowl-front dress too! But we all know, Miss Lady Gaga will be saving some of these runway looks just for herself! Next Winter...Lady Gaga: the McQueen Snow Bunny!

Debutante Ball in Svalbard: Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Turn Up the Heat: Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Pink Powder Puff Girl: Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Red Pouf: Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Where's my Snow Mobile Chauffeur? Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Click Below for the Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton Fall/Winter 2012/2013 Collection Full Runway Video:




Alexander Mcqueen Embroidered Skull Dress

Taking a stab in the dark, I guessed the identity of the skull dress to belong to that of an Alexander Mcqueen collection, specifically it's the Spring 2009 Ready-To-Wear collection. The skull motif has been favoured by the fashion label for a while, so it became my first port of call. I'm glad that I guessed what brand it was, but also there was very little information I could find on it other than a runway photograph of model Abbey Lee Kershaw wearing the dress. You can see the overall shape and form of the dress but the white glare from the flash of a high-end camera prevents us from seeing the skull motif in the first photograph.

From the close-up detail of the dress we can see a sheer panel onto which the embroidered skull motif has been sewn onto, the skull being made of intricate stitching and floral detail. The formation of the cheekbones of the skull as well as the teeth make it appear to be smiling rather than a gruesome or horrifying grimace. The leafy detail around the border of the sheer panel as well as the bow at the bottom softens the appearance of the skull and makes it looks so sweet in that pure white material. Normally I try to avoid whuite dresses- they're not normally my cup of tea but with the imaginative design of Alexander Mcqueen and a sassy skull, this white dress is A+ material.

Project Runway Season 9 Recaps: Episode 11--Bird Inspiration


Ornithology Couture, Project Seamstress and Dreams of a Miss Universe National Costume Parade of BIRDS...


Project Birds: Now THIS is what I would LOVE to have seen--Miss Bahamas Universe 2011 Anastagia Pierre in her National Costume (Top), and Miss Bolivia Universe 2011 Olivia Pinheiro (Bottom)

On this week's Project Runway Season 9, the Challenge was to create a "High Fashion Runway Look" inspired by Birds. A cockatoo, An Amazonian parrot, and a raven. An owl was there but alas, it wasn't picked (it might have been fun to see the KRAZEE mess one of these contestants would have done with an Owl as a Muse!). Part of me secretly wishes some of the designers went all out "Miss Universe National Costume Parade of Nations" .

Polly Want a Gunn Cracker: Mentor Tim Gunn eying a cockatoo, Project Runway Season 9 "This is for the Birds" Episode

Project Runway Birds: Owl, Parrot and a Raven

Many designers have been inspired by birds of course, most notably, of course, the late Alexander McQueen comes to mind, especially his Spring/Summer 2008 Collection. Three dresses from that collection stand out as examples of "Bird High Fashion":

These are stunning creations that would of course definitely be in the "High Fashion Runway" category of the Challenge, but somehow, because of their overt homage to the birds (the exuberant feathers!), if one of our little 'ol Project Runway designers made one of these, they might have ended up in the bottom for being too "literal". PUHLEEEASE! But, moving on...

Cin-Anya-rella

Besides the Bird Challenge, the Project Runway vs. Project Seamstress Dilemma crept up once again in this episode. A LOT has been made of the fact that Miss Anya--or as I call her "Cin-Anya-rella". She :
A) Just learned how to sew (according to her only 4 months prior top arriving in NYC for the Season 9 shooting);
B) Has little construction knowledge and sometimes "forgets" to put an opening so an actual REAL PERSON can get into the garment;
C) That she just "whips" up creations like no one's business and "makes it work", and
D) The judges just keep letting her through and often times giving her the Win, even though it's been half-glued, half put together "on a string".

Most of the comments on my myLifetime.com BLOG have been, in fact, about how a lot of fans are "miffed" at this. And naturally, so were Joshua and Viktor, the "Sewing/Construction Stepsisters":

The "Sewing/Construction Stepsisters": Joshua McKinley and Viktor Luna

Now, let me get this off my chest: I side with the "Joshua and Viktor Stepsisters" on this but with a small "BUT". I am of the "school" that as a Fashion Designer, you MUST learn EVERYTHING and learn it WELL. And that includes sketching, pattern making, draping, as well as sewing. These fundamentals are essential, especially if you are just starting out and are a "struggling" designer who cannot afford a pattern maker, draper and/or a seamstress. When I was first starting out in this industry, I made most my stuff. I had to. I had no choice.

But...then , after I began my NIKOLAKI company in 2001, I hired seamstresses to sew my creations for me (they did a much better job!). But because I had that knowledge of construction, I could tell them--with confidence--of what TO DO and HOW to do it. In fact to this day, I sew a lot of my collection muslin's/toiles, only because I want to. But what does this have to do with knowing how to sew perfectly on Project Runway? Little. I sadly learned first hand, in my season--how sewing had little to do with the outcome. And it frustrated me, as it is NOW frustrating Joshua and Viktor. Anyway, if you want to read MY FULL THOUGHTS on this matter--click HERE, or keep reading below...

For now, let's just cut to the "Bird Fashions":

The Top:

Joshua McKinley: As I began this posting, I said I kinda wished I would have seen some "Miss Universe National Costume" Bird-inspired Gowns or looks because most of the designs left me wanting just a little more. I am sure that by now, these kids are creatively drained. And it's showing! But still, the judges had to pick their faves. Joshua McKinley's was good. LOVED the color, the one-shoulder drape. Very "Sophisticated 70's"!! Oh wait, WRONG Challenge. Ooooops, well, it still worked for this challenge, although would you really consider this high fashion?

Kimberly Goldson: She made this gown in THREE hours. Some of the wonky sewing shows this. But it's PROJECT RUNWAY not Project Seamstress! So, she's one of the top. I liked the gown. And I even liked the pearl trim so Boo Hoo Mr. Michael Kors!

The Winner was Anya Ayoung-Chee. It was edgy, directional, High Fashion and not so literal. More importantly: It WASN'T yet ANOTHER Anya MAXI DRESS! Yes, she forgot to add a zipper in her dress but she "made it work" on the runway. Jushua and Viktor were not happy. I think if I was standing there--and knowing that she had forgotten to even put a closure/opening...yeah, I would have been pissed too! But, again--I've gone through six years of "letting it go", so I know now that unfortunately, the judges DON'T CARE.

The Bottom:

Laura Kathleen: Pants were too tight and the jacket: too predictable. But can we talk about HOW STUNNING her model is???!!! Blessed thing couldn't walk on the runway though for some reason--the shoes must have been too small or too big (or maybe it was the too-tight pants!?).

Viktor Luna: One of the "Stepsisters" ended up in the bottom, because the judges deemed it too literal. the shredded raw-edged organza "feathers" were a bit much but I did like the painstakingly hand-shredding he was doing while in the workroom on this gown. I just wished he might have left it at that---oh and lined THE ENTIRE gown!

The Worst was Bert Keeter: Plain and simple, it was BORING. The Bustier was cut to perfection, though. But in a challenge that was supposed to be HIGH FASHION and inspired by GLORIOUS Birds, this just looked like a very nice dress at a Saks Fifth Avenue Fashion Show, in 1998.

And now, my Recap from the myLifetime.com BLOG:


Project "I Don't Care How She Gets Into It"

Anthony Ryan and his Hippy Dippy Navajo-print Girls are gone. Sigh. I fantasize that they're probably enrolling in a Women's Studies Program in New Mexico — with their mohawk'ed "Best Gay." For now, six designers are left. Now what? Here's a sampling: Birds, birds, and more birds, plus a head-to-head challenge with A LOT of twists and a $20,000 prize! There are glue-gun meltdowns and the infamous Project Seamstress or Project "Make It Work" Dilemma. It's enough to drive a boy to ... write a recap.

$20,000, Sweetie Darling
We begin with our fourth Advertorial Challenge (but who's counting!). This one is different. For starters, it's L'Oréal. Second, there are birds waiting for the designers back at Parsons as their next challenge is announced: they must create a high-fashion runway look inspired by a cockatoo, a parrot, a raven and (if you look closely …) an owl! The six designers are split into teams of two and given their Bird Inspiration. Anya and Laura get the raven, Joshua and Bert get "Sweetie" (how ironic) the parrot, and Viktor and Kimberly get the cockatoo. The owl gets left behind, unfortunately. Finally, what makes this challenge really different? The prize (besides the Marie Claire/L'Oréal advertorial): a $20,000 check. Shut. The. Front. Door.

Head to Runway Head
Twist No. 1: Instead of competing against the other teams, they are competing HEAD TO HEAD — against each other. As original as this "Head to Head" component was, I was a bit questionable of the idea: What if both members of a team were equally FABULOUS? What then? Moving on …

Twist No. 2: After the designers have been working for a full day, Tim walks in to announce that they are to create a SECOND look as well, and they are given $300! "Project Runway" has definitely upped the budget! I remember having $30 to make a flower dress!

Click HERE to read the rest... And don't forget to leave your Comments--I read them all!!!!

Royal Fashion Minute: Monaco Royals attend 63rd Annual Red Cross Ball in Monte-Carlo


Fuchsia Princess


Royal Couple: HSH Prince Albert II and HSH Princess Charlene of Monaco, in Akris gown, Red Cross Ball Monte-Carlo

Last night was the 63rd Annual Red Cross Ball in Monte-Carlo Monaco, held at the Sporting Monte-Carlo. 800 guests payed 1,000 Euros (over $1,400) to dine, dance and hear Joe Cocker, who performed--and enjoy the glorious festivities.

The Dance Floor Scene--Before and After: Sporting Monte-Carlo, 63rd Annual Red Cross Ball

And of course, get a glimpse of the Monégasque Royals. Speaking of, of course HSH Prince Albert II and his recent bride, HSH Princess Charlene of Monaco were there. Charlene wore a fuchsia silk Dupioni strapless (she loves to show off those Swimmer's shoulders of hers!) "Mermaid"-style fitted gown from the Swiss Design House of Akris, designed by Albert Kriemler. There are rumours circling the Royal-watchers forums saying that she might be pregnant, but you couldn't tell in this gown. No baby-bump yet.

The Princess and the Ill-Fitting Tuxedo: Prince Albert II and Princess Charlene of Monaco, 63rd Annual Red Cross Ball Monte-Carlo

The Princess wore her hair side-swept and tucked under grazing her neck in an elegant style reminiscent of the late Princess Grace. Her clutch matched the color of her gown. Prince Albert II--bless his heart--looked a bit schlumpy in a too-long Dinner Jacket tuxedo and way too long pants (aren't there any tailors in Monaco?). My goodness, he is one of the RICHEST Men in the World, and can't get a tuxedo to fight right?

Princess Charlene also wore a GORGEOUS Van Cleef & Arpels Océan Necklace (which can also be converted into a tiara, of course), consisting of 88 round diamonds, 10 pearls, 359 sapphires. It was a gift from Albert to his bride (oh how sweet!).

Princess Stephanie and her sister Princess Caroline of Hanover also made an appearance at the 63rd Annual Red Cross Ball Gala. It was Princess Caroline's first appearance at the Ball since 2008.

She wore a purple-and-gold flower printed silk gown with contrasting black-and-white polka dot side panels, accessorized by simple gold and diamond hoop earrings. Quite a bold statement by the Princess who usually chooses more sedate outfits from Chanel.

Among the 80o guests was Dame Shirley Bassey, who wore the same Pre-Fall 2009 Alexander McQueen dress (red color) that Pippa Middleton wore as Maid of Honor to her sister's Royal Wedding to Prince William. Incidentally, yes, it's also the same dress actress Cameron Diaz wore to the Golden Globe Awards in 2010. This is THE MOST popular dress IN THE WORLD, it seems!

Royal Fashion Minute: Catherine Duchess of Cambridge Gives you Military Chic in Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2011


Salute Couture!


Soldier Girl: Catherine Duchess of Cambridge in Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2011

Over the weekend, on Saturday, Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge--and yes, new wife of Prince William--stepped out with her Prince, attending the Irish Guards Medal Parade, in the Victoria Barracks, in London England. As usual, Catherine looked FANTASTIC (does she ever get it wrong??) in a Military-inspired (how apropos?) navy wool crepe double-breasted coat-dress with brass buttons and epaulets from Alexander McQueen's Pre-Fall 2011 Collection. On the original model--in the McQueen Look Book (on the right) it is not a dress but a coat with an open "cut-out" section. Of course it was customized for the Duchess!

Try Not To Be Excited Boys: Catherine Duchess of Cambridge, greeting the Irish Guards, Irish Guard Medal Parade, London England

Catherine accessorized her look with a golden Irish shamrock brooch, an Anya Hindmarch Marano clutch as well as a chic little matching pillbox hat with a looped ribbon and feather by Rachel Trevor-Morgan--the ribbon detail is VERY Korean Airlines flight attendant if I don't say so...(I just did!)

And lest we forget, Prince William also looked dashing in his Military uniform and coat!! Seriously! THAT is a COAT huney!!! It could have come straight from a McQueen Collection as well!!!!

Royal Fashion Minute: Catherine Duchess of Cambridge Edition


Fashion Duchess...


Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge
has been quite busy this last week and that only means one thing...MORE FASHION! Above we see Catherine wearing Alexander McQueen Resort 2011 to the Trooping the Colour. The Trooping of the Colour is the official commemoration of Queen Elizabeth II's Birthday. She also wore a black Philip Treacy Hat. Loved that coat and the side draped cascade godets. This is from the same collection as the white blouse the First Lady, Michelle Obama wore when she visited London last month.

Later that day--yes, OUTFIT CHANGE!!!---Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, kept the Philip Treacy hat but switched into this black and white geometric print satin sheath dress by Zara to attend a wedding. Go Zara!!! Go Catherine--and GO Geometric Prints!!!

On Monday, Catherine wore a blue Jane Troughton brocade coat over a pleated Zara dress to attend Prince Phillip's 90th Birthday celebration. She really is looking like a Royal in 2.2 seconds; The printed three-quarter coats, the hats, the colors. Someone is schooling her right!

And then finally, to attend the Order of the Garter Ceremony, the Duchess wore a beautifully tailored light grey Katherine Hooker three-quarter coat (see, I told you!) over a silk cowl neck draped dress (also by Katherine Hooker). She finished the look off with a fantastic Rachel Trevor-Morgan fascinator. Her Press Office, her Stylist and Miss Catherine!....are WORKING OVERTIME! It seems that her Momma done taught her right--fashion and other-wise...

Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2011 Highlights--Photos & Runway Video: Alexander McQueen, Dior, YSL and Louis Vuitton!!


McQueen Warrior Goddesses, Sailor Girlfriends, YSL Cigarette Girls and Vuitton Asianas


Ombré Queen: Fan-pleated, dip-dyed and twisted organza gown, Alexander McQueen Spring 2011

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2011:

Office Diva: Fitted suit with feathered collar, Alexander McQueen Spring 2011

As we know, after the untimely passing of designer Alexander McQueen 9 months ago, his right hand, Sarah Burton was in charge of following in his creative genius footsteps. Burton had already been actually designing the line--along with Alexander McQueen for a while so it was a good guess that there wouldn't be a "Design Earthquake" occurring with this or any near-future collection.

Butch McQueen: Pant suit with gold embroidered leaf detail, Alexander McQueen Spring 2011

Spring/Summer 2011 was the first full runway show outing for Burton and by all accounts, it was a sublime outing. All the looks were VERY McQueen: The sexy, strong corseted dresses, the bold, whimsical yet mysterious prints, the Nouveau-Renaissance Warrior Goddess suiting, powerful shoes, and almost Angel-like gowns...

High-Low: White gown from Alexander McQueen Spring 2011

There was a flora-and-fauna disposition throughout the collection, from the pheasant-feathered skirts to leather leaves, golden wheat sheath dresses and raffia-covered brocades.

Kaleidoscopic: Printed fit-and-flare cocktail dress, Alexander McQueen Spring 2011

There's plenty here for McQueen Muse--and beer heiress--Daphne Guinness to like, as well as Young Hollywood Starlets, the likes of Carey Mulligan and Keira Knightley to wear on the red carpet. Designer Sarah Burton has big shoes to fill, but if this collection is any indication, she's on the right path.

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2011 Runway Show:



Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2011:

Shipwrecked: White parka, Polynesian-inspired printed dress and black booties with white scrunchie socks, Dior Spring 2011

Ahoy Sailor! Yep, for Spring 2011 John Galliano's Dior girl is waiting for her sailor boyfriend to return home
. Either that, or the Dior girl is his mistress at one of his many port towns. Now, he wouldn't be just a Sailor if she could afford Dior. And she wouldn't just be any girlfriend or mistress: She would be a very EXPENSIVE one. Models stomped the catwalk in sailor hats and ultra feminine frocks constructed from silk chiffon, crepe and georgette. Colorful "island" prints dominated. The hairstyles were definitely Retro as well: Bangs and turned under dos, very Betty Paige Pin-Up.

Calendar Pin Up: Model Chanel Iman works these printed shorts and twist-knot blouse, Dior Spring 2011

Of course, the clothes were great but the stars
, were the accessories. Most fashion insiders know that Fashion Houses like Dior only make their money in purses, sunglasses, shoes and perfumes (for the most part). Here were two of my faves from this collection:

The highest leather Bootie pumps featuring Espadrille-like heels, buckles and "scrunchie socks" were so chic.....

And this royal blue Lady Dior patent leather bag will be a must-have for any Sailor's girlfriend with an extra $2500 in her--or her man's--checking account.

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2011 Runway Show (DO NOT MISS John Galliano's end-of-the-show walk!):




Yves Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2011:

Le Smoking 2011: Danish Model Freja Beha Erichsen in a black center-front slit gown, YSL Spring 2011

During this past Spring 2011 Fashion Week Season, so many designers--Jason Wu and Marc Jacobs to name a few, were inspired by the Master, Yves Saint Laurent. I think a lot had to do with this Summer's YSL Retrospective in Paris. I was lucky enough to have gone and yes, it was AMAZING!

Ready for my Cointreau Digestif: Aquamarine printed silk dress, YSL Spring 2011

So, since YSL was in the "air", it was up to the actual designer for the House of Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati
, to really show everyone how it's done. And he did. It was an "Homage to the Master"--with plenty of transparency, flounces and ruffles, strong tailoring and even some ensembles resembling the iconic "Le Smoking".

Olé: Strapless ruffled black and fuchsia belted dress, YSL Spring 2011

But at the same time, Pilati brought the YSL woman to this decade, modernized her a little bit and added very directional pieces that she would love. I'm sure Monsieur Yves was smiling up in Heaven.

YSL Spring/Summer 2011 Runway Show:




Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2011
Like Dior, Louis Vuitton is one of those Fashion Houses that makes its bread-and-butter not on the clothes but on it's purses, luggage and sunglasses (to name just a few). I certainly got it when I visited the Paris flagship on the Champs Elysees over the Summer and saw the massive throngs of people BUYING EVERYTHING on the first and second purse-and-luggage floors. The clothing area, alas, was empty.
But Louis Vuitton designer Marc Jacobs has the envious job of having the luxury to push the boundaries of fashion with each new collection. For Spring 2011, he decided to go to the Far East. This makes sense since that's where the new, much-sought after Luxury Goods client is living. But it could be argued as to why a Millionaire's wife in Shanghai would want to dress up like she's in costume? Irregardless, there was lots of Asiana references as seen above.

There was also lots of transparency and high slits to you-know-where. It was a bold, colorful and a visually entertaining collection. Jacobs also got some Top Supermodels of the past to WORK the runway including a red-haired Carmen Kass, as well as Alek Wek (seen above).
and Kristen McMenamy (above) who ended the show in high-waisted black satin trousers and a zebra-print jersey top. Attagurl!

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2011 Runway Show:

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